L.A. to Miami On Amtrak's Longest Haul

LAFAYETTE, La. After sitting up on a cross-country train forfive of the past eight nights, you'd figure Joe and Thelma Aaronwould be desperate for a long bath and a soft bed.

I know I would, and I've only been riding the rails for two days- sharing a snug "deluxe sleeper" with a hand-held shower that myroommate can't seem to master without scalding herself. (Afterhearing her yelps, I haven't even tried the fiendish device.)

But here are the Aarons: hand-in hand, snuggling contentedlyunder a white blanket in the observation lounge car as Amtrak'sSunset Limited muscles its way toward New Orleans on a warm springevening. The Winter Park, Fla., retirees booked …